Porfirio’s

When people suggest going to nice, fancy Mexican restaurants, I always balk because, to me, Mexican food should always be cheap, greasy, and come from a hole in the wall type of establishment. Of all the fancy Mexican places I’ve been to, I find they are too commercialized and don’t hold that authentic flavor you find from the cheaper places. Porfirio’s, a gourmet Mexican restaurant in Cancun, was recommended to me by the hotel concierge at the Westin Lagunamar. Since this recommendation was coming from a local, I went against my judgment and decided to give it a try. Boy, did it not disappoint!

The decor of this establishment was perfect for a romantic date. The indoor seating is lighted with candles and dim lighting to set the mood. Outdoors, they have seating on the patio next to the water fountains and dock.To start the night, I tried the Josefina de guayaba (guava) and mango. These drinks were made with mezcal, which is distilled from an agave plant. The liquor definitely showed through the mango but not the guava one. Continue reading

Centro Historico

In the heart of Guadalajra, lies its history. With buildings lying along the axis of a cross, with the Cathedral of Guadalajara in the center, here in Centro Historico (Historical Center) you will find:

Plaza de Armas has an ironwork gazebo made from Paris.

This faces the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace). The clock will always remain at this time due to a stray bullet aimed at the president, who was visiting at the time. The bullet hole is still visible and lodged in the workings of clock.

On the east side of the Cathedral is the Plaza de Liberacion, where protest demonstrations are held. Teatro Degollado faces this plaza. It is the oldest surviving theater that still holds performances.

Behind the theater is the Fuente de los Fundadores (Fountain of Founders). This is the exact spot where the city was founded by Cristobal de Onate.

If you continue walking from the fountain along Plaza Tapatia, you will come upon Hospicio Cabana. This was founded as an orphange and homeless shelter in 1810. Now it is a museum.

Walk towards Calle Dionsio Rodriguez and look for vendors selling leather goods. Squeeze in between the shops and you will discover Mercado Libertad, known as Mercado de San Juan de Dios to locals. Here you can shop for jewelry, leather goods, candy, and fake name brand items. I was in awe at this place because you generally only find this in Asia. 

Torta Ahogada

Torta ahogada is a drowned sandwich, which is a typical dish of Guadalajara. The birote bread has a crunchy crust, which allows it to withstand the sauce, and a soft interior. This regional bread is filled with fried, chopped pork and then submerged in a chili pepper tomato sauce. Top it with raw onions and cabbage and enjoy! Tip: It’s messy so have napkins handy!

Tejunio

Tejunio is a popular drink from Jalisco’s neighboring state, Colima. It is made out of corn dough mixed with water and piloncillo (cone shaped unrefined brown sugar). It is boiled until thick and then fermented. It is served cold with lime juice, sprinkle of salt, and a scoop of shaved ice. You can find this concoction sold by street vendors. I bought mine in front of Instituto Cultural Cabañas.

Catedral de Guadalajara

This Roman Catholic cathedral is the cathedral of Archdiocese of Guadalajara. Built in 1541, the initial structure was an adobe with a thatched roof. It has gone through many changes due to fire and earthquakes to become the current minor basilica in the Renaissance style with neo-gothic towers.

The exquisite alter, made out of marble and silver, is dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption. 

This cathedral also houses the remains of St. Innocent. Inocencia was a little girl who had lost her mother at a young age and found faith in the Catholic religion. However, her father was against it and told her to never step foot in the church. With the help of the church, she got baptized. Overcome with joy, she ran home to her father to share the good news. In anger, he stabbed a knife through her chest. She was transferred to the cathedral as a silent witness of the Eucharist.

(Av Alcalde 10, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico)

Karne Garibaldi

Karne Garibaldi is known for its fast service. Once you put in your order, the food appears like magic. I loved their re-fried beans with white corn. They also can it and sell it worldwide. I will be on the look out for this next time I’m grocery shopping.

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They keep their menu simple by offering only a few dishes. Their signature dish is carne en su jugo (meat in its juice), which comes in three different sizes: small, medium, or large. I got the small, which was the perfect size for me. I loved the added bacon. Toss in some onion, cilantro, lime juice, and grilled onions, dip a tortilla in the juice and you’ve got yourself a tasty meal.

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Don’t forget to wash it down with some of Guadalajara’s finest beer. Modelo is brewed and packaged in Guadalajara.

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(Carretera a Tesistán, Av. Juan Gil Preciado 1999, Parques Zapopan, 45138 Zapopan, Jal., Mexico)

How to Travel from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara

There are many ways to travel from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara. The fastest and most expensive way is to fly. You could also rent a car and drive the 4.5 hours. However, I chose to take the bus since it took the same amount of time as driving but without the stress of navigating in unknown territory. The three bus companies that operate from PV to Guadalajara are: ETN, Primera Plus, and Vallarta Plus. The stop is located at  Carr. Fed. Tepic Km 9.5, Col. Las Mojoneras, 48292 Puerto Vallarta, Jal. Mexico. I found that none of the websites listed where the bus stop is. I told the taxi driver to go to the Primera Plus bus stop and hoped for the best.

I went with Primera Plus because it was the cheapest at 441 pesos. I was very impressed with their service. Before you board the bus, they hand you a packed lunch and a drink of your choice. The bus is very spacious; the one I boarded only had 5 passengers. Each seat comes with a TV. There’s also wifi and it’s fast! There’s also a bathroom on board.

Sit back and enjoy the ride. Before you know it, you’re in Guadalajara.

Puerto Vallarta, the New Mexican Hotspot

I booked this trip on a whim and was very pleased. It was within my budget for a last minute trip and had everything on my to do list: beach, beach, and oh! the beach! Puerto Vallarta is a tourist driven town. Keep to yourself and you won’t have anything to worry about.

How to Get Around (To and From the Airport)

  • Car Service- There are various car services you can arrange to pick you up from the airport. The one I used was Superior Tours Vallarta. Dependent on the size of your party and the location of your hotel, the trip will cost $25-$145 per vehicle.
  • Taxi- Ask your hotel how much it should cost to reach your destination by taxi and confirm with the driver before jumping in. If they over quote you, move on to the next one. For the few times I used the taxi, these are price points:
    • Centro to Marina- 70 pesos
    • Centro to the Airport ~135 pesos
  • Bus- If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take the city bus for 7.50 pesos. There are no bus maps nor websites. Look on the left side of the front window to know where the bus is headed.

Where to Stay

Puerto Vallarta is broken up by the following neighborhoods:

  • Nuevo Vallarta- The newest area of Vallarta. This is where the all inclusive resorts are located. About 45 minutes away from the heart of Vallarta.
  • Centro- Right above the bustle of Malecon. The beaches here are rockier but cleaner.
  • Malecon- The heart of Vallarta. Lots of tourists attractions on the streets and the beaches. I found the beaches here to be crowded and dirty.
  • Conchas Chinas- South of Malecon
  • Mismaloya

Things to Do

  • Walk down Malecon for food and souvenirs.
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  • Los Muertos Pier on Los Muertos Beach- The beach here is dirty.
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  • Las Marietas Island
  • Los Arcos, Animas y Quimixto
  • Rent a jet ski. The going rate is $50 USD. I asked for a discount and got it for 600 pesos.
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Things to Eat

  • Pancho’s Takos
  • Raspados- Mexican version of shaved ice topped with a syrup of your choice. I chose guava.
  • Dirty dog- Bacon wrapped hot dog topped with everything. Mmmm good.

Los Arcos, Las Animas & Quimixto

If you are looking to add to your Puerto Vallarta itinerary with more than just relaxing on the beach, I highly suggest going on a boat tour to the surrounding beaches and islands. Initially, I was intrigued by Las Marietas Islas but in order to get there, you have to be able to swim 30 feet deep. I can’t swim so it was quickly crossed off my list. Los Arcos, Las Animas & Quimixto was referred to me by a beach peddler. (There are peddlers selling various items. Just say “no gracias” if you’re not interested.) He was selling me a package for 450 pesos/ person but luckily my hotel’s concierge was selling it for cheaper at 400 pesos. Tip: Be sure to check with your hotel concierge for their rates before booking online. It can be cheaper.

The concierge booked us with Vallarta by Boat. We meet them at the Marina Terminal at 10 am, paid the 25 pesos port tax (per person) and got ready to enjoy the day. This package included the following: 

  • Breakfast of fruit and orange juice
  • Snorkel gear for Los Arcos
  • Kayaks and paddle boards at Las Animas
  • Hike to Quimixto
  • Lunch
  • Open bar on the boat
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Los Arcos is Spanish for the Arches. Vallarta by Boat provided snorkel gear and life vests in exchange for an ID. They parked by the arch below for a 30 minute snorkel session.

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Then we headed over to Las Animas, where we were given the option to hang out on the beach of Las Animas or hike to the waterfall at Quimixto. They said the hike to Quimixto requires forging three rivers. This can be done by renting a small horse for 200 pesos or walking. Reviews I read said the horses are small and sad. In addition, the waterfall is blocked by a restaurant. To see the waterfall, you have to pay the restaurant fee. After hearing all of this, I opted to stay on the beach at Las Animas.

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The water at this beach was crystal clear.

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Kayaks and paddle boards were available to all.

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There were also options to play volleyball on the beach or for an additional fee, you can go parasailing. 

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Lunch options at Restaurant Ohana were: fish fillet, quesadilla or chicken fajitas. I opted for the chicken fajitas. It doesn’t look like much but it was surprisingly delicious. Full of flavor and kept me full. Keep in mind, the lunch does not include drinks so bring some extra cash for drinks.

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Shortly afterwards at 3 o’clock, those who went on the hike, came back. It was time to call it a day and head back. I had lots of fun on this trip and highly recommend this all inclusive package.

Pancho’s Takos

This place is a steal! 12 pesos for al pastor tacos. For those that don’t know, al pastor is pork marinated in spices and cooked in a rotisserie. The meat isn’t shaved off until you order. 

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Look at the beauty of the tacos fresh off the grill. They also come with a slice a pineapple (in the picture above it’s on the rotisserie above the pork). These were flavorful and delicious! 

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Don’t forget to add lime and salsa! They offer three different salsas. The one the top right was spiiiiiccccyy!

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They also offer tacos with different types of meat and quesadillas but these ranged from 20-30 pesos. I just couldn’t pass up on the 12 pesos al pastor tacos.

This place is a bit difficult to find as the streets do not have signs and the restaurant doesn’t have it’s name out front.

The name is all the way in the back of the restaurant.

Below is a link to the google map. If you follow it, you should have no problems. To get here, I walked along the beach. Once you’ve reached Oscar’s restaurant, walk 5 blocks, turn left and three stores down on your right is Pancho’s Takos. Look for the popular taco spot and the staff with Pancho’s Takos t-shirt. 

(Calle Basilio Badillo 162, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, JAL)